I've been shooting and stitching a lot of time-lapse frames together lately, in a variety of environments, a mix of business and pleasure. A few example videos from my YouTube playlist follow.
Without any formal training, there was a lot of trial and error involved. What follows is the basic procedure I use to create time-lapse video.
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I tend use the following gear:
The battery on the GoPro only lasts a couple hours, so the skeleton housing is key for long (read: 6-8 hours) shoots; just plug in AC power and you're good to go. It also protects the lens against spit, sweat, and splashed beverages, something the open frame can't provide.
I use the time-lapse function on the GoPro, the only settings I tweak are around image quality and interval.
5 MP images are more than sufficient for creating high-definition (1920x1080) videos for upload to YouTube, but they aren't super-wide, so I go with 7 MP.
10 MP images are too much, it creates extremely large (resolution) files that:
If you want to create 4K video you'll want to stick with the higher resolutions, although to date there really aren't a lot of platforms where you can tell the difference.
Calculating interval is a function of how long the final video needs to be and how smooth the motion needs to be. Most folks won't watch a video longer than a minute or two unless they're really engaged in the content or have something specific they're measuring (i.e. foot traffic at a conference booth). I aim for the final video being somewhere in the 1.5 to 2 minute range.
For landscapes the interval can be a lot longer than for people-motion, say 30-60 seconds. For people-motion I usually go with a 10 second interval, although for short clips I may go as low as 1 second. For the turkey carving, I knew it'd be a short session so I used a 0.5s interval. It's better to take more than less, since you can always drop every other frame before stitching.
There are plenty of time-lapse calculators available on the Internet, although I usually end up jotting down the figures by hand.
I transfer all the source files to an SSD-backed disk, one folder per video. The mini-USB connection feels slower than mounting the microSD card directly, although it usually isn't worth the hassle of removing the camera from the case.
Zeitraffer is a beautifully simple program that takes a folder full of stills and stitches them together, however many frames per second you choose. Zeitraffer is available from the Mac App Store.
I usually use 30fps, but sometimes 24fps. I leave the other settings alone.
After processing, the result is a QuickTime video in 4:3 format.
To finish the thing, I use iMovie to reformat/crop the video into 16:9 (as preferred by YouTube and modern televisions).
For comparison, consider this behind the scenes mixing video: raw 4:3 versus the cropped 16:9 version.
In iMovie:
The result is a QuickTime video in 16:9 format, sans sound, but otherwise suitable for upload to YouTube.
I usually find royalty-free music on YouTube and add it after-the-fact. Nothing fancy, there.
Last Modified: 2016-11-25
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